The art of riding the waves has been defined in 1769. From ratchet boards to Walden surfboards created by the father of the modern longboard, surfing has been enjoyed for centuries for the naturally adventurous. It has also caused many accidents and deaths just like any high risk sport, but by knowing your limits and considering the factors, you will live to surf for many years to come.
Reading the weather is the first step in ocean safety. For beginners, you should be able to understand how the ocean behaves and why, and how the weather would affect it. More often than not, the ocean is unpredictable, so do not go in when you are doubtful. There is always another day and another wave.
Notice where the waves are breaking consistently. If there are other surfers, do not hesitate to ask if the water is safe. Observe how they are also moving in the water, if they seem to be struggling to paddle or swim. If the ocean seems nasty, do not force yourself to go in, especially if you are on your own.
Check the features of the landscape. Keep your distance when you see jetties. Cliffs and piers are for very experienced surfers only, so steer clear from them if you are just starting to learn how to ride the waves. Look out for rocks and other geological obstacle that may impair or disfigure you.
Waves are more dangerous when they are larger. Ride the size that is within your skill set, and remember that water is heavy. Just to give you the numbers, one cubic foot of water is as good as sixty two pounds. Hollow and crumbling waves are great for hard surfing, but only deal with them when you already have the experience.
The ocean currents can be good or bad, depending on your tolerance, skill, and how adventurous you are. Currents that run parallel to the beach are called longshore currents, and can drag you if you are not careful. Be careful with rip currents.
Follow etiquette. The biggest hazard of all is not the landscape or the waterscape which you can just avoid, but other surfers. Be careful with crowded breaks and expect surfboards to be flying all around you. So do not be a kook and follow the honor system and respect other surfers.
Know how to swim. The ocean is not the same as your good old swimming pool. Swimming pools do not have currents that can drag you and make swimming difficult. You should also note that your surfboard is not a flotation device, it is a sports equipment. Chances are, your surfboard will be flying out of reach when you wipe out, so do not rely on your surfboard for your safety, rely on your swimming skills.
About the Author:
If you like this article please shere it